ARTICLES
Beyond Goop: The rise of Esotericism as a consumer trend
With the rise of tarot readings on Youtube, WitchTok (a category in TikTok with spells and manifestation sayings), and a “wellness” category sprouting in most online shops, the rise and acceptance of esotericism. Esotericism is the scholarly term for the secret knowledge that studies Yoga, Magic, Spiritualism, Hypnosis, Astrology, Mysticism, Meditation, Alchemy, Occultism, etc. For many, this is their religion, their community, or their daily ritualistic practice.
For brands, it has become an opportunity. Wellness is an unregulated industry that targets people’s insecurities, offering remedies at high prices. Goop was one of the firsts to capitalize on “ancient modality”. Their infamous jade egg promised women healing through a crystal egg, a practice that Chinese queens would use to satisfy the emperors. Goop also added a hormonal balancing claim to the egg, without any medical backing. Goop was sued for false claims and had to take the jade egg off their shelves. What was once a running joke, is now an industry worth over $4.5 Trillion.
Covid-19 pushed the wellness industry to new heights. More and more brands started releasing collections targeted at “spirituality”. From horoscope underwear packs by Parade to the tarots-inspired collection by Dior Haute Couture. More and more crystal shops are opening up that sell jewelry, tote bags, candles, incense bundles, and tarot cards at extremely high prices, and on the weekends the line to enter is out the door. What used to be “hippy-dippy” or “weird”, has now become a trend that is likely to be more accepted than going to a place of worship.
There is nothing wrong with being open-minded as a brand and seeking inspiration, and it isn’t the first time designers have used esotericism in their collections, but how much is too much when spirituality becomes muddled in consumer culture? Esotericism has always been perceived as a secret knowledge reserved for the lucky few who are truly interested in exploring. Now that it is facing mainstream exploitation, what are the boundaries for brands to stop them from selling a $305 high-vibrational dress or $120 “Mystical AF” T-shirts?
Sarineh Garapetian